Right after I graduated from Yale, there was a massive wave of weddings as college sweethearts tried to give it a go in the real world — or, as my four-year-old boy likes to say, “for real life.” I was clueless about weddings. Honestly, I don’t think I’d ever been to one my entire life until I graduated from college. My parents both had very small families and relatively few friends.
I had no idea about wedding etiquette and I recall today with much shame a wedding invitation that I didn’t even have the decency to RSVP “no” to. I had decided (in my own mind) not to go. It was in Detroit or someplace out of the way like that and what was the big deal anyway? My friend (the bride to be) called me a few days before the wedding.
“Are you coming?” she demanded. “We haven’t heard from you.”
“Um, no, I guess not,” I said in the halting tone of voice used by someone gradually coming to the realization that they have fucked up royally.
One wedding that I didn’t miss was held in New Orleans, one of America’s great cities. My friend, Christine, was getting married to a complete lunatic named Tom. I always carried a torch for Christine. She was a Southern girl — smart, pretty, funny, the whole package. I never did anything about it, of course, but then was horrified to think she was going to marry someone that I didn’t know very well at all, but who seemed like a bit of a jerk, at least compared to me. (I believe they are still married, some 20 years later. Guess I was wrong. Or Christine really likes jerks.)
Anyway, I flew down to New Orleans for the wedding and was pretty much hammered for the duration of the weekend. It’s not hard to do in New Orleans, of course, where you can walk down the street with a drink in your hand or in both hands, for that matter. (They should try this in Baghdad. Why blow yourself to smithereens when you’ve got a nice little buzz going for yourself? Get McCrystal on the horn, stat.)
The night of the wedding merely ratcheted up the drunkeness to a new level. The groom had his arm in a sling, having fallen off the roof of a house the previous night at his bachelor party. (Dude, you NEVER schedule the bachelor party that close to your wedding, come on.)
At some point, my dear friend, Liam, and I were wandering around the streets of the French Quarter, looking for something to eat. I’m guessing it was about 2:00 a.m. and we had it in our alcohol-soaked heads that we wanted to experience some real New Orleans barbecue. I remember (vaguely) deciding this while sitting on a park bench eating beignets from Cafe du Monde. I believe I burned my fingers reaching into the bag of beignets and not really caring because they were SO DAMN GOOD.
But it wasn’t barbecue. And so Liam and I set off into the New Orleans night. We asked a few locals where to go. By this time, it was probably about 3:00 a.m. and, even in the Big Easy, most of the places to which we were directed were closed. We ended up VERY far away from the French Quarter, wandering around in search of one last mythical barbecue joint. I’m not sure how we didn’t get killed. Two fancy white boys from Yale. Drunk off our asses. Lost and well outside the tourist district (which itself isn’t the safest place on Earth).
But there is a God and apparently he likes white boys from Yale and he LOVES barbecue because we found the place and it was OPEN, baby. To call this place a hole in the wall is to disparage all other holes in the wall around the world. The entire place basically consisted of a giant fat man standing behind a little glass counter. No tables, no chairs. Nothing.
“We want some genuine New Orleans barbecue!” we said, thrilled to have found this place, any place, really, that would satisfy our fix.
The man served us some chicken. We stood there on the other side of the counter and started eating.
“Holy shit, that’s good,” I said, or maybe Liam said it, I don’t really remember.
“Mm-hmm,” the fat man responded. “That’s Cajun spice.”
Liam and I still use this line with each other today, typically to indicate that something is excellent or, alternatively, disastrous. A pretty girl walks by. That’s Cajun spice. A pretty girl walks by and you have a giant booger hanging out of your nose. That’s Cajun spice, too.
I’m laughing as I type this and wondering if it will make sense to anybody but me and Liam. I guess I don’t care.
Because that’s Cajun spice.